Module 1 Formstorming

Weekly Activity Template

Kurtis Lauwereys

Project 1

Module 1

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Activity 1

My first simple circuit did not work because I didn't leave a gap under the light, so it was 1 continuous strip of copper tape. I forgot to photograph this without the light though. I used a box cutter knife to trim a piece of the copper tape to create a gap for the LED light to fit in. Now the circuit has a positive side and a negative side. Here is the circuit closed, with the LED light turning on showing that it is functional. My first series circuit didn't work at first because I forgot I needed 2 batteries, but I built it properly with the necessary gaps after learning from the simple circuit. Here is the assembly of the series circuit. Here is the series circuit closed, with 2 batteries powering the 2 LED lights showing it is functional. This is my first attempt at a parallel circuit. I had to be mindful of the folds to keep the circuit continuous, since this tape is only conductive on 1 side. This would be easier with tape that is conductive on both sides. Here is the full circuit assembly. The left side is positive, the right side is negative. This also requires 2 batteries to function like the series circuit. This is the parallel circuit closed, with 2 batteries powering the 2 LED lights showing it is functional. I started exploring with other materials now. This is conductive paint on pink card stock, with copper tape to anchor the light and continue the circuit. Instead of a fold-over to close the circuit, I used the green gator clip with wire and pressed it against the paint. When I had it clamped to the paper it wasn't making enough contact to light up the LEDs so I had to do it this way. Next I made a ribbon circuit as a basic way to test other materials. Sewing this with conductive thread was rough, because the thread isn't smooth and very springy so I was constantly fighting with it to try and lay it smoother. I gave up on making it pretty and just aimed for functional because it wasn't worth spending the time on something that is just for testing and learning. I made it work by looping one of the metal wire ends of the LED and sewing conductive threat through the loop and the fabric over and over. I made approx 10-15 loops with the thread before tying it off and cutting it. Here is the ribbon circuit closed, with 1 battery powering the single LED to show it is functional. I expanded the ribbon circuit with alligator clips to see if it would work. It did, however you can't clip the battery or it won't work because it's touching both the positive and negative sides at the same time. This only worked when I was pressing the clip against the correct side of the battery. I made a felt battery pouch with conductive fabric cut into ribbons to complete the circuit when a battery it inside of the pouch. I attached alligator clips to the ribbons, and then the clips attach to the correct anode and cathode wires of the LED light. I did some Googling and discovered Play-Doh is a conductive material due to the high salt content, so I tried to make a simple circuit with it and it worked but it was so feint you can't see it in this photo. This gave me the idea to try using a stronger battery but I didn't have one, so I waited for the Week 2 class. The battery used here is a basic 3V battery. I tried again, this time with a 9V battery and it worked! I wanted to see how far I could stack the LEDS with them remaining lit, so I used 1 of each colour and surprisingly they all lit up. The further down the chain you go the less power there is available, so they gradually get dimmer. I attempted to make a graphite circuit because Jen mentioned another classmate was able to make it work, but I was unable to make it work. I tried a few times with slight tweaks but it just wasn't working no matter what I did. This is the circuit open. This is the graphite circuit closed. I'm glad I tried it but I wish it would have worked. I wanted to have at least 1 fun shape so I made an eye shape, kind of similar to how Egyptian Eye's are drawn in my favourite childhood cartoon Yugioh. I used copper tape to hold the anode and cathode wires in 0lace against the conductive paint that makes the 2 halves of the eye shape. I didn't fully plan out how to close the circuit so I just used some aluminum foil since this is for testing and learning purposes only. This is with the switch open. Here is the closed switch version to demonstrate that it works as intended. Circuits are getting easier to make and understand now, it's basically just layering of positive and negative 'tracks' with the right amount of power pushed to the light. I wanted to try something more out there so I made a potato circuit. This is version 2, version 1 also worked but both were impossible to photograph with the lights on. This photo shows the construction of it, but the camera doesn't capture the light because it's so dim. This would have worked better with a 9V battery I believe. Here is a photo from the same aspect but with the lights off, to show it actually works. It's impossible to get a perfectly crisp photo with such little light and no tripod but I did my best to get this. For my final circuit I used a steel coil scrubber and unwound it a bit. This was very finicky because the steel coil doesn't lay flat so the battery slides off of it. I had to squish the battery into it, and then use my thumb to press the steel coil into it on the other side to make enough contact to light the LED.

Activity 2

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Project 1

Final Project 1 Design

Wearable Interactive Affordance Based Circuit

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Non-Wearable Interactive Affordance Based Circuit

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